Hand watering is an important part of the maintenance program at most golf courses, but loading and unloading hoses from a work vehicle is time consuming and tiring, plus dragging them around the course can damage the turf, the hoses, and any signs or stakes that happen to get in the way. While I was working at Karsten Creek Golf Club in Stillwater, Oklahoma, I tried to make hose transport easier for our staff by fabricating custom-built hand watering trailers. The idea was to create a mobile watering unit that is ready to go at a moment’s notice and can be used anywhere on the course. I was happy with how they came out and the staff really appreciated the upgrade. With the right parts and planning, superintendents and mechanics can easily replicate what I built and streamline the hand watering process at their courses.
The Build
There are similar types of trailers or transport devices for hand watering hoses that can be purchased; however, designing and fabricating in-house saves money and allows for tailored solutions that fit your specific needs. Here are the key steps, materials and details I used for the build.
Design and Materials
My trailers were constructed from standard 1.5-inch square metal tubing that can be sourced inexpensively from many suppliers. Two-inch tubing would also work well and would provide a beefier trailer, especially if you want to use a larger hose or have rough terrain to traverse. The dimensions of the trailers I built are based on the size of the hose reel plus space needed to add a battery. Weight is balanced evenly over the axle so that the trailer is not forward or rear heavy. I used standard four-lug golf cart tires, which tend to be readily available at most golf courses or relatively inexpensive to buy.
For the hose reel, I used a Reelcraft electric hose reel and the superintendent provided his choice of 100-foot long, 1-inch watering hose that gives adequate water supply and an effective coverage area between quick couplers. The hose reel is the most expensive part and you should expect to pay around $1,000 for one that will last. I used a deep-cycle marine battery and a battery box purchased from Amazon. A standard 2-inch trailer hitch is used to attach the trailers to a ball on the back of our utility vehicles.
Fabrication
I used a band saw rated for metal to cut materials to length and a MIG welder to put the trailer together. I strongly recommend taking time to develop a thoughtful plan that meets your specific needs and creating a detailed drawing of your trailer before purchasing any materials and getting started. I share the basics of my design below, but these specifications will vary based on the size and type of hose reel, the axle and wheels chosen, the trailer hitch and other factors. My biggest piece of advice is to plan carefully and, of course, to measure twice and cut once.
The build starts by cutting the main support pieces of the frame and laying them out to check that everything fits correctly and looks good before welding. After welding the main frame together, the two wheel hubs are welded to the sides of the square tubing and the trailer hitch is bolted on the underside of the front. Next, the hose reel is bolted to the center of the frame, balanced between the wheels. The final piece is the battery box, which I prefer to locate in the front for better weight distribution. One of my favorite little touches was adding a vertical piece of 1.5-inch round tubing to securely stow the quick coupler that’s on the end of the water supply hose during transport.